Living in Mexico

In general, public transportation is much superior to the States. As the States has only really one (terrible, unmentionable) bus line of note, Mexico has dozens. Most cover either a single local area, or an extended area of the country (i.e. “Buses of the Northwest”). Prices are very reasonable, and if you are student you can get half price (however there are usually only two tickets per bus that are sold at half price. If some senior citizen, handicapped individual, or other student has already beaten you to that bus, you will either half to pay full price or wait for the next bus). Always ask. Especially in summer.

Most larger cities will have “micro” routes. They are smaller buses that have their set route, the number and a few places they go by usually posted in the windshield. If you want to use them, you will have to do a little research to figure out what route they run. If you are living in a major city, this will probably turn into your most useful public transportation option.

To or from any city will have nice buses. Usually between smaller towns, many chicken buses still run frequently. They get the name from the fact that people will go to market, buy their produce (and sometimes live chickens) and bring them on the bus where they throw the chickens up above where the people sit, or in bags on the floor. There will rarely be chicken buses that run a long distance. Usually just between smaller towns. They are more than likely cramped, with tight seats, but the cheapest option by far if that is what you are looking for. Sometimes they are actually quite decent.

Taxis are not quite as handy as in other Central American countries. But to get from place to place locally, they are not a bad option. They will never be as cheap and nice as a bus, but probably more convenient. For instance, if you need to get somewhere at 1:00 AM, or need to go NOW, they are the only option. In general, there are collective taxis and special taxis.
Collectives are the cheapest, but you will need someone to tell you how to get to them. They are usually the local commuters’ secret. You sit in them and wait for them to fill up, usually three in the back seat and two crammed into the front (avoid the front). From town to town, there will usually be a collective. The collectives exist in big cities, but for the most part you have to know already where they are and how to use them. And they probably won’t go around the city, just from that city to an outlying area.
Usually within a city, or town, you will need a special taxi. Any taxi can be a special taxi, not every taxi is collective. In major cities the taxis will have meters. For example, in Mexico City the meter drop is 8.4 pesos, and then like 1.6 pesos a kilometer. Guadalajara is known as the most expensive taxis in the country. But usually at night or in the morning, the meter will be turned off and you have to inquire of the fare to wherever you are going. Just go ask them how much they will charge you to get to somewhere. Fares are rarely bargain-able. You take it, or go find another taxi. They are too proud to bring their price down.
Taxis can be dangerous in big cities. In the smaller towns, the taxi drivers are from that area and people know them personally. They won’t take the risk (probably won’t even think about) trying anything. Too easy to get back to them. In big cities, there is no way of finding them again. I know people who have been robbed at gun point by the taxi driver, taking all they have on them. If a taxi driver is going to rob you, he has fake plates, a fake ID, and nothing that will allow you to trace it back to him. It can get sticky sometimes.
But then again, I have been in many taxis in the city and nothing has ever happened to me. I have one friend who says to look for older taxi drivers. If the driver looks like there is a chance of heart attack, he probably isn’t the type to commit armed robbery.

Plane flights can be useful, especially as airlines are currently fighting for market control. Both Volaris (http://www.volaris.com/) and Aero California have deals and great rates (although Aero California just got shut down for unsafe practices). Once you are in the country, flights between Toluca, Guadalajara, Cancun, Monterrey, and other major cities are both fairly inexpensive and easy.

Trains are both terrible and infrequent. There is one tourist tramline on the west coast that is said to be a nice trip, although not cheaper nor more convenient. Recent investment in infrastructure has built more Mexico-US rails, but almost all are for industrial use principally. Don’t bother.

Driving is a whole other subject. If you ever have the chance to drive, any local will probably tell to “drive heads-up” but in more vulgar terms. They mean you have to watch the road actively at all times. There is no pointing your car down the road and closing your eyes half way and listen to the radio while speeding down the wide open freeway. Any road is going to have pot holes, speed bumps (Mexicans love their speed bumps), dogs both alive and dead, cows, donkeys, whatever, people crossing the road, gravel, uneven surfaces, toll booths, and cops. Even the most expensive toll road in the country, Mexico City-Acapulco, has over 25 kilometers of problematic, even dangerous, road. There is no time when you should ever take your mind off the road.

At some point I will try to provide a breakdown of toll road costs somewhere on this site. But you shouldn’t take my word for it anyway. Buy a “Guia Roji.” It is a “Gazetteer” type publication that has accurate road maps (although doesn’t get too detailed except in major cities) and breakdowns of the tolls you will pay on the major highways. You can find them at most newsstands.
This is how it works: in general, from major city to major city, you have two options: toll roads, or the “free way.” The free way can be just as nice as the toll road in some places, and it can be an eight hours further, nightmarish, deathtrap in others. Some are nice but complicated, but with no foreknowledge can be tricky. I could tell you all I know, but I don’t know how much it would help.
The two main advantages of the toll roads is that the toll you pay guarantees safe travel, and it is the most direct route between two places. In the first mentioned advantage, if you have an accident caused by, for example, a cow crossing the road, they will pay for you to get a new car. Your toll is like insurance for any problem on the road. The second mentioned advantage is that it is a direct route that will get you there the fastest.
The disadvantage of the toll road is that it can sometimes cost a lot. Guadalajara-Mexico City, for example, has 8 toll booths for a total of about 600 pesos. It is a five or six hour drive, at 60 bucks each way. You might as well fly. The other disadvantage is that the government has purchased the cheapest land it can (and thus the ugliest, most useless) to build these major highways. The “free way” can often be a fantastic drive through many scenic areas and towns.
I recommend the following: if it is your first time, bite the bullet and pay the toll roads. To get to know the area, if nothing else. Once you get settled, talk to people and see what they think. If someone knows a great free road, and explains it to you well, try it someday you have a couple extra hours to spare. But otherwise, don’t take the risk.

“Idiosyncrasies of driving.” Like culture in general, each area tends to have their own little quirks. But in general, driving in Mexico can be a little tricky. One thing I have seen everywhere is the propensity to use turn signals to help other pass when it is clear ahead. For example, if you are tailing a truck and trailer, and he puts on his left turn signal, he could very well be telling you that it is safe to pass on the left, that no cars are coming (especially when it is difficult to see around him). On the other hand, he might also be using his signal to tell you he is going to turn left. Whoops! Additionally, his idea of “clear” might be significantly different than yours.
Regardless, pass with caution, especially on two lane highways. There is one road that I have to turn left on, and the only way to do it safely is to come up the hill, turn my left signal on and literally throw my car right, onto the unpaved shoulder, and then make my turn left when it is all clear. 9 out of 10 cars begin to pass as soon as I put on my signal, and seeing how it is a completely blind corner just ahead, could be death for a lot of people if I am not careful (another reason to stay on the major highways).

Before I continue, let me just mention that the following scenarios are worst case scenarios. Most people are not evil, and most situations are not bad. But it always can happen, so you want to protect yourself. I am not trying to tell you morally what is right and wrong, as if that would change from country to country. I am simply explaining the reality of the situation. The reality is this: people will take advantage of you because they know you are out of your element, and they believe they can make you feel nervous, scared, and end up giving them more money because you do not understand how it works. I am going to try to explain how to avoid this.

If you are in the unfortunate situation of getting in a wreck, try to work the problem out before the police arrive. Culturally, most Mexicans have a “sh@# happens” attitude, and if it really is their fault, won’t try to turn the tables on you. If they happen to have insurance, they will tell you right away. Don’t count on it though. Get their info (name, phone, address, license plate, anything they have about their car like registration) and swiftly work out an agreement to exactly how much it will cost to fix (i.e. exactly how much they are going to give you). This can get tricky, but if you can get it resolved quickly, can make life a lot easier. Don’t be afraid to barter the price.
If you can, try to make them feel like you have been doing this your whole life. Get out your camera and start taking pictures. Of their car, of them, of their license plate. Get out paper and take notes. Do anything to make them know you are not hesitant and are not going to fool around.
If you get the feeling they see your foreign face and want to take advantage of you, don’t fool around. Especially if it’s a taxi driver. If things get sketchy, literally rip the license plate off their car. I am not joking. It is the best evidence you can get. Find witnesses and get their info. Make those people stick around, and don’t let the driver of the other car out of your sight.
If the police do come, no big deal. But again, watch the “other guy.” I know too many stories where the “other guy” pays the police off right there, and they go to court and all say it was your fault and you pay. Keep that camera out. Be belligerent. Don’t let them take advantage of your lack of experience (their only foothold). Keep those witnesses handy and away from the other driver.
If you speak no Spanish, just keep that camera handy. You are going to get a court date, if the police arrive, so just keep them honest. Try to communicate to witnesses that it wasn’t your fault (unless it was). Get their info (although they might not want to give it to you).
If it is your fault, just say you’re sorry, give the other driver your info, and agree on a total cost before the cops show. No blood, no foul. And pay them in a timely manner.
If it is blood (i.e. vehicular homicide), most Mexicans “da la fuga” – get out of there. I am not saying that is the best option, even if it was only an accident. I am just saying it ONLY will get worse from there forward. Your call.

If you have the misfortune of getting stopped up by the police (for speeding or minor traffic violations, or maybe for no reason), don’t panic. If you drive for long enough, it is almost guaranteed to happen (the average Mexican family pays over 1100 pesos a year in bribes). They also are preying on your lack of experience and terror of being stopped by the “scary Mexican police” to gouge you into a bigger pay-off. The way the system works usually is this: the police pull someone over for a traffic violation, the cops do not want to give a ticket and have to deal with all the bureaucracy, the person in the car would rather pay a 100 peso pay-off than a 1500 peso ticket, and everyone leaves happy. The problem is this: sometimes you get pulled over for nothing. “You ran that red light.” “No I didn’t.” “Yes you did.” …Now, I have seen in person both light and very heavy attempts at fraud. Light is usually a 50 to 200 peso bribe, two minute conversation. It is done in this manner: the cop tells you that you were speeding, or whatever his excuse is, and the driver apologizes, says he didn’t realize it, and tucks a 50 behind his driver’s license and registration, which he hands to the officer. The cop takes a look at everything, tells you to be more careful, and lets you go. If you do it like you’ve done it a million times, it’s no big deal.
But sometimes the cop wants more. He says you own a 2000 peso ticket, or something absurd. That he has to confiscate your car. Makes you nervous and tries to get the upper hand (“son, you are in possession of a stolen car”). At that point you either offer a larger bribe (up to 1500 pesos), or call his bluff. Calling his bluff will escalate things, but that does not mean it will necessarily get worse. I have seen cops take people on a wild goose chase, telling them that they are taking them to the police station, drive around a few blocks in circles ending up at an ATM somewhere, and then come back and try the whole game over again. Kind of silly sometimes, as usually the cop has no leg to stand on, and the person just keeps calling his bluff.
I do not have to spell out possible horror stories, but you can imagine they have happened. But realize this: no cop wants to spend his whole day wasting time for nothing.
SO. I recommend this: if you get pulled over, act like you know no Spanish (easily done if you really don’t). Make it apparent that this is going to be incredibly difficult for the police to get anything out of you at all because you simply don’t understand. Point around and speak in English and look confused. This should ease the situation. If this gets you nowhere, pull out a 200 and hold it up. A 200 anywhere should get you out of just about any smaller situation.
If your situation is more desperate, you probably are going to need more help than I can offer. I am not here to give advice to criminals or people who are causing serious problems.
Lastly, if you are by yourself, it can be a little more dangerous. Try to not actually give physically the police any ID or important paperwork. They may keep it. Try, if you can, to stay in the vehicle. They cannot plant anything on you if you are safely in your car. And just try to use common sense.
Oh, sometimes there are routine Army checkpoints. These are no big deal. They don’t want anything from you. They are probably just checking for weapons or drugs. If you don’t have any, you are on your way.

If you are bringing your car across the border to keep with you, you have two options: legalize it, or get a tourist permission. The permission should be good for six months. If you have to pay, you will probably get your money back returning the car across the border. If you decide to sell the car or something, leaving it here in Mexico, you will not get that money back. If you legalize it, you must do it right there at the border. It may come with a fee, up to 700 pesos I believe, it may not. I don’t know why that is. They may tell you it might take 3 days. You can always ask how much it would cost to hurry up the process. Avoid taking out bills to bribe public officials, but asking simple questions like “how can I hurry the process up?” can always help. If you can pay an extra 500 pesos to get it done in 3 hours, instead of 500 a night for hotel plus whatever more for food for three days, it might be worth paying.
You will see a million signs when arriving at the border, but it is illegal to bring any sort of weapon into Mexico. If they find one on you, you will go to jail. Too many stories of people asking friends to take cars across the border for them, the person doesn’t realize there is a gun under the seat, and they find themselves quickly in jail. Not fun. Please be careful.

Renting a car is about the same drill as bringing your own car. Prices are probably a little cheaper than in the US, but do make sure you go with a brand name agency. US insurance does not carry over to Mexico, so you will either have to get additional insurance. Some US carriers to give insurance for Mexico, there are Mexican agency but the easiest is probably just with the Car Rental Agency. If you are planning to drive through or in Mexico City, make sure to let them know that. Because of emissions regulations, only certain registered cars are allowed to be in the city. It is a holographic sticker that goes on one of the windows. Ask them about it, and then ask to see the sticker, just to make sure. If anything goes wrong, immediately call the Car Rental Company (they should give you a number). They will be able to help you out with whatever problems you are in. Much easier than dealing with someone who wants to take you for all you have.

Buying a car in Mexico can be cheap, as cars devalue much more rapidly than in the US. A used Chevy four-door in good condition with 30000 kilometers I saw was going for 55000 pesos. A mechanic buddy said it was in excellent shape. But I do have to recognize that cars deteriorate faster too, probably due to speed bumps everywhere (many which you don’t see and totally scrape the bottom of your car), poor roads, lack of garages, etc.
There are also more low-end cars for sale new. There are quite a few smaller cars (Nissan Tsuru, Ford Pointer, for example) that are under 100000 pesos brand new.